Capsize Recovery

In light of the events from the last fleet race I thought it may be helpful to post some thoughts about capsizing and righting a Scot. I should mention that I have not capsized yet so none of what I am about to say has been put in practice. For some time, Kim and I have discussed the idea of picking an appropriate day (while the water is warm) and intentionally capsizing the boat to try it out. We've just never done it but the sailors at Deep Creek Lake have. Here is a link to see the process, with step by step photos: http://www.saildeepcreek.com/capsize_drill.htm


As time goes by we continue to be amazed that we haven't wiped out yet, but it is only a matter of time. I need only to think about the Egans at the 2006 midwinters and I know it will happen to most of us, eventually.

We have discussed what we THINK we should do when it is our turn to swim. Here goes:

1. Lifejackets on - Lets hope we have lifejackets on if the wind is such that we are at risk to capsize. We don't routinely wear them but we do store them and the throwable cushion on the floor under the aft deck. The reason is that they should be easily accessible, on the low side, with the boat lying on it's side. If stored up forward they could be much more difficult to get to. Do you know where your winch crank is? A lanyard or having one always in a specific pocket would be a good idea, in case of turtling.


2. Throwable cushion to masthead - Ideally this will be Kim's job and is probably the most important one to accomplish quickly, aside from safety issues. We will want to use the throwable to help prevent the masthead from submerging. The other steps can wait assumimg we get this one done correctly and quickly, so I will make sure she is ok before I proceed. She will stay there with the cushion under the mast as long as needed.


3. Release the sheets - Assuming this has not already been done, I will release all sheets to prepare to right the boat. I also plan to flip/throw the jib sheet (on the high side of the boat) over the boat so it hangs down across the the bottom. That jib sheet will be used to gain leverage to right the boat. The angle of pull used to right the boat will leave that sheet un -cleated and free to run as soon as it is released, if the other sheet was used it would remain cleated after I let go of it.


4. Release the Spinnaker halyard - Assuming the spin. was up at the time, releasing the halyard should make it easier to re-enter the boat after righting it. My boat does not have the take up reel and it is likely the halyard will not run without a tangle. This is another reason why I should install the reel, I've added that to "my list".


5. Try to right the boat - On our boat this will be my job since I weigh the most. I will swim to the underside of the boat and grab the centerboard if it is down enough to grip it. If the board is retracted inside the trunk I will grab the jib sheet which should be hanging there and place my feet against the hull and begin to hike against that sheet. I expect that the boat will come up without too much difficulty at this point, assuming we did not turtle. A note about the centerboard, I have had the boat on its side and in this position the board is very difficult to move by hand, unless it is mostly down. Being in the water will make it even more difficult so I don't expect to be able to move it. If I am struggling here I will call to Kim (still at the masthead) to help me try to right the boat. Assuming we right the boat with sheets eased the boat may or may not sail a very short distance before luffing itself to the wind.
6. Get back in - This may seem like an easy thing to do but it isn't as easy as most expect. We will use the safety line mounted to the transom. Mine is rigged with a bungee to keep it in its normal position. However when you grab it while in the water it will extend enough to be able to push it low enough in the water to place your foot on it, like a step ladder. This allows you to use both arms and legs to help get back on the stern deck. I've noticed a couple boats in our fleet have folding transom ladders but most don't.
7. Bail - Or not, if you're lucky. Somtimes a recovered Scot will be virtually dry, other times pretty well swamped. I guess it depends on your luck and the time required to get it righted. With the boat on its side (not turtled) the only opening to allow water intrusion is the spinnaker thru deck blocks, if installed on the aft deck. My boat has the small Harken blocks, I think they are part # 088 which won't let too much water in. The larger size blocks will allow much more water to enter since they accept larger diameter line sizes.

So, what if all this doesn't work and we turtle? Chances are a tow boat will be needed to help right the boat or help tow it back to a beach or dock. This is when a bow flotation bag is very helpful. Incidently, class rules will be requiring bow bags for boats competeing in FSSA regattas beginning in 2009. With the bow bag and transom port it is possible to drain a lot, perhaps most, of the water from the boat, enought that you may continue to race without a trip to shore. Without one, the best you can expect is a very slow tow back to shore and a lot of bailing.

Any comments and or suggestions are welcome especially from those who have experienced the process first hand. If we find the oppurtunity to put this process to test I will update this entry with what I learned. Any ideas?